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山水——全球名家旗袍邀请展

展览地点:中国丝绸博物馆时装馆二楼

展览时间:2018年9月 - 2018年10月

山水:全球名家旗袍邀请展

主办:中国丝绸博物馆

Mountains and Water: Global Qipao Invitational Exhibition  

China National Silk Museum


 

前言

Preface

 

旗袍是民国时期中国女性开始穿着的带有传统风格的一片式长衫。它源起清末,成形于上海,兴起于20世纪20年代,流行于30至40年代,至今仍为全球各地华人喜爱,成为中国女性在国际舞台上的标志性服装。

Qipao started to appear as a traditional style of long gown worn by Chinese women in the Republic period. It originated in the late Qing dynasty and took shape in Shanghai. It rose in the 1920s and was popular in the 1930s and 1940s. It is still popular with Chinese people all over the world and has become the iconic clothing for Chinese women on the international stage.

2017年起,杭州开始举办全球旗袍日,定位于文化与旅游、传统与时尚、艺术与生活、中国与全球的跨界互动,中国丝绸博物馆也籍此举办全球名家旗袍设计邀请展。2018年的展览筹备历时一年有余,共邀请美、英、法、挪威、日、韩、印尼、墨西哥及中国在内的十个国家的30余位著名时装设计师、装置艺术家、非遗传承人等制作了40余件旗袍作品,总体以山水为题,旗袍为形,以各地域文化的特点为背景,以各设计师擅长的领域为角度,基于传统,结合新技,创造出时尚的旗袍新品。也愿观众在参观后能开拓视野,得到启迪,为创新性继承、创造性发展走出新的路子。

Since 2017, Hangzhou has started to hold the Hangzhou Global Qipao Festival, which aims at the cross-boundary interaction between culture and tourism, tradition and fashion, art and life, China and the world. Thus, China National Silk Museum has started the Global Qipao Invitational Exhibition. This exhibition has taken more than one year to prepare, invited more than 30 famous fashion designers, installation artists and inheritors of intangible cultural heritage from ten countries including the United States, UK, France, Russia, Norway, Japan, South Korea, Indonesia, Mexico and China to produce more than 40 pieces of Qipao. The exhibition has taken landscape as its theme, qipao as the shape, with the characteristics of regional culture as the background, with the designer's expertise in the field as point of view, based on tradition, combined with new technology, to create a fashionable new qipao style. We hope that the audience can broaden their vision and be enlightened after the visit, so as to create a new way for innovative inheritance and creative development.

 

一 东方风格

 

旗袍是一种内外和谐统一的典型传统服装,是近代中华女性的时装代表。旗袍以其流动的旋律、潇洒的画意与浓郁的诗情,表现出女性的贤淑、典雅、温柔、性感和清丽。在本单元的作品中,有中国设计师和外国设计师共同向黄金年代的旗袍致敬,以今天的眼光重温当年的心动。

I  Oriental Style

Qipao is a traditional costume style that reflects harmonious relation of the dress and the wearer. It is also a representative fashion style for Chinese women in modern times. The figure-hugging design and poetic pattern shows sexiness and elegance of a Chinese lady. In this chapter, Chinese designers and foreign designers pay tribute to qipao of the Golden Age and recall the glory of that time with today's eyes.


这里的作品包括中国高级时装定制大师郭培的三件以花鸟为主题、刺绣为工艺的经典旗袍,郭培在这件旗袍上以苏、蜀、粤、湘“四大名绣”为基础,融合欧洲绣法。将绚烂的绒线与金线组合,绣出一片春意盎然的景象。

Guo Pei, born 1967, is a Chinese fashion designer. She is best known for designing dresses for Chinese celebrities, and in America for Rihanna's trailing yellow gown at the 2015 Met Ball. Guo is the second born-and-raised Asian designer to be invited to become a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture after Lebanese designer Elie Saab. In 2016, Time Magazine listed her as one of the World's 100 Most Influential PeopleThe embroidery on qipao is based on the "four famous embroideries" of Su, Shu, Yue and Xiang, also integrates European embroidery methods.


中国美术学院设计艺术学院院长吴海燕教授的作品以良渚为设计灵感,面料采用金银线织成。款式为抹胸晚礼服,后摆如锦鲤般灵动。缀以旗袍盘扣立领,展现中华女性风姿。

Wu Haiyan is one of China’s most influential designers. She is now the Dean, professor, doctoral supervisor of Department of Design and Art of China Academy of Art. Member of the Seventh Discipline Review Group of the Academic Degree Committee of the State Council; Vice-Chairman of China Fashion Design Association. The design is inspired by Liangzhu culture, and the fabric is made of gold and silver thread. The style is a tuxedo evening dress. The qipao is decorated with a stand-up collar to show the Chinese feminine charm.


此外这一单元中的作品还有梁子的春色满天的印花与香云纱的结合;林霞以台绣的抽拉雕技艺演绎出的紫椹屏风散下一园的绛红;李玉莲设计的不经过任何裁剪一体成型的竹意境;劳伦斯许以全手工钉珠绣五彩祥云对中国元素进行表达。

Liang Zi is known as the "environment-friendly master" in the fashion industry. She is the Chief Designer of Shenzhen Liangzi Fashion Industry Co., Ltd. And "TANGY Collection" . 15 years ago, she saved the endangered traditional ecological fabric Liang Silk with over 500 years of history and dedicated to its protection, heritage, design and development. This two-piece ensemble has a colorful qipao underneath a sedate jacket. The design is both trendy and practical, shows the contemporary way of wearing qipao.

Lin Xia, a master of Chinese arts and crafts. The master of Chinese embroidery art, a senior artist of Arts and crafts, Director of Tai Embroidery Art Museum, vice director of Tai Embroidery Research Institute, and Zhejiang Tai embroidery apparel Limited company chairman and art design director, the third generation inheritor of "Taizhou embroidery". This theme was commissioned to welcome the G20 Summit. The carving techniques of embroidery are deduced incisively and vividly, precipitating a new style of "Taizhou embroidery" with distinct blending of traditional culture and contemporary art.


Li Yulian is a full-time associate professor in the Department of Textile and Clothing Science of Furen University. She has devoted herself to the fashion design for a long time. She tried to seek poetic vocabulary in clothing creation, taking natural images as patterns. Using a unique form of "painting without painting" to create bamboo patterns, the designer innovatively used clothing techniques, directly sewing "pleats" on the fabric, without any cutting and made into a drawings.

Lawrence Xu graduated from the Department of Fashion Design of the Central Academy of Arts and Crafts, and then studied in Paris.  His design style combines Western and East, was popular among celebrities. His signature was the Dragon robe wore by Fan Bingbing on 2010 Gannes Film Festival. The clouds are one of Chinese traditional pattern. This qipao is covered with embroideries and handmade beading, graceful and magnificent. 

 


二 遥远视角

在过去的二十年中,中国旗袍进入了自由发挥的时期。除延续传统外,又有大量崭新的演绎,体现了当今审美和文化的多样性。本单元的作品主要由外国设计师为主,他们各自都在进行传统文化的时尚化,而此时用一个外国设计师的视角来看中国传统的创新路径,或许也是一种有益的借鉴。


II  Faraway Perspective

In the past twenty years, Chinese qipao has entered a period of innovation. In addition to the continuation of tradition, there are many new interpretations, reflecting the diversity of today's aesthetics and culture. This unit shows mainly foreign designs, whose designer are endeavor to make traditional culture fashion again. Viewing traditional Chinese innovation path from foreign designer's perspective, could also be a useful reference.


这其中的创作者包括:

韩国艺术家、设计师、教育家琴基淑.她的作品将艺术与设计完美结合,以红色金属丝为材料,雕塑出中国女性穿着旗袍的阔形。于金属丝网上,红色真丝纱作为点缀与装饰遍布。设计师阐述金属丝网象征互联网,绳结代表人与人的交互,点题杭州“互联网城”。

Key-Sook Geum is an artist, fashion designer, and scholar from the Republic of Korea who lives and works in Seoul. Having taught and worked in fashion design, Geum combines art with fashion in her exquisite wire sculptures in the shape of women’s dresses. She holds a doctorate in Costume Aesthetics from Ewha Womans University, and was a professor in the Department of Textile Art and Fashion Design at Hongik University in Seoul until 2017. Geum has also held fellowships in China and the U.S. Her artworks are in private, corporate, and museum collections and have been exhibited internationally. She was the costume director and designer for the opening and closing ceremonies of the 2018 PyeongChang Olympic Winter Games.  

The Red Dress Work were made by red wire and ornamented with numerous pieces of red silk gauze. The color red came to artist’s mind as China or Chinese culture. Therefore color red was chosen to embody the Chinese aesthetics for the Qipao Work. In addition, Red Dress is associated with an image of beautiful lady While the intwined Red wire of Qipao work signified www(world wide web) which connect the people around the world, the silk gauze ornaments implied many encounters or relationships among people in the world. The lives would be beautiful with full of various relationships and interaction among people around us. Therefore, a beautiful life may be near through enlightenment of the relationship or interaction among people as if the red Qipao work signifies

法国毛毡艺术家兼摄影师弗朗索瓦·霍夫曼女士。她制作的水墨丝毛旗袍源自她来杭州时拍摄的风景照,融合了现代派与婉约派的审美,采用创新性的毛毡与丝绸面料的结合,将东方旗袍与西式晚礼服元素巧妙结合,表现出极度动感且层次丰富的东方山水意蕴。这种持续性的创新,更符合了杭州作为活力创新之城的时代气质。这件旗袍经过网络投票和专家评选,获得了“杭州旗袍”的称号。

Françoise Hoffmann adds the vibrations of light kneaded into the fibers to her textile sculptures. Her taste for relief (3D), chiaroscuro (light and shadow) and scenic perspective transform her work of art into an instant vision of contemporary bodies. Human Body and landscapes impregnate the silk as traces of our times. 

Title: “You cannot step into the same river twice”

Hybrid felt and photography

Composition: silk crêpe, Australian Merinos wool

A unique creation, it is the first of a trilogy on the theme of the qipao, which is emblematic in China.

Technique: hand made felt casting incorporating silk fabric

英国时装设计师Deborah Milner.她将旗袍的款式与手绘技艺、立体剪裁相结合,灵感来源于西湖水草,但结合对王家卫的《花样年华》中旗袍的印象,最终形成飘逸灵动又雅致的成品。

Deborah Milner (born 1964) is a British fashion designer active since the 1990s. Since 2000, she has focused on ecologically aware design, founding Ecoture, her ecological couture line in 2005. In the early 2010s she was head of the Alexander McQueen couture studio.

Hand printed silk Organza by Fromental using traditional Chinese craftsmen from Wuxi. Organza dyed with natural indigo by Ao textiles.

墨西哥高级定制时装设计师Carmen Rion,她的作品结合了墨西哥本土纺织技术与中式旗袍盘扣元素,上半身贴身紧窄,下半身垂坠感强。是中国元素与西方阔形结合的典型。

Carmen Rión is a Mexican researcher and fashion designer, recognized for her role as a pioneer in the rescue of traditional Mexican textiles and their integration into contemporary fashion.In 1999, after several years of experimentation, the CARMEN RION brand was born and its first showroom was established. The following year, the headquarters boutique is inaugurated, located in the iconic Condesa area in Mexico City.

The work combines Mexican textile technology and Chinese qipao element. The upper body is close-fitting and narrow, while the lower body stretches. It is a typical combination of Chinese elements and western silhouette.

英国时装设计师Caroline Butle为了纪念马可·波罗到访杭州,设计师将马可波罗的驼峰之行印在丝绸之上。这件作品的另一个灵感来源于 顾维钧的夫人,一位于30年代推进上海旗袍款式革新的女士。她被《时尚》杂志评为20世纪20-40年代的“世界最佳着装女性”排行榜。服装的“翅膀”模仿蚕蛾的翼。

Caroline Butler is an untrained designer who has worked as a film actress, singer, business manager and marketing director. Her own legendary experiences add a bizarre flair to her designs. In 2010, she founded her own fashion studio, Earl of Bedlam, with her husband, a graduate of Goldsmith College. The unique design was popular among British singer and actors. 

There are Marco Polo and his camel train printed on the body of the silk dress. The more transportation-ally sophisticated (some 600 years later) Madame Wellington Koo will be depicted taking Chinese style around the world interspersed with silk moths on gossamer wings. She was an early adopter of aviation - we don’t believe she ever flew a Gypsy Moth biplane herself but artistic licence allows us to place her in the cockpit. She was on Vogues “Best dressed Women in the World" list for the 1920s-40s. Madame Koo tirelessly promoted Chinese silk as the best in the world, using the qipao as her signature look. In Shanghai in the 30s she can be credited with updating the dress and making it into the flattering garment we know today. She took the slit daringly higher but maintained decorum by wearing pantelettes underneath, hence our addition of the silk trousers to which the lower”wing" is attached. Vogue magazine saluted her enlightened approach to promoting goodwill between East and West.

 


三 科技新路

当科技发展,跨界结合帮助设计师打破边界,带着旗袍走向更广阔的天地。当旗袍可以成为运动装,当金属可以成为面料,当可穿戴电子产品嵌入每日的着装,旗袍不再仅仅是我们概念里的样子,旗袍还是旗袍吗?


III Modern Technology

Along with the development of technology, cross-border integration helps designers break boundaries and take qipao to a wider world. When qipao can become sportswear, when metal can become fabric, and when wearable electronic products can be embedded into daily dressing, qipao is no longer just the appearance in our concept, qipao or not qipao, it will remain a question.


这里的作品包括:

法国ESMOD设计学院历史上第一位亚裔教师熊有雯。她对设计师进行了彻底的换位思考,对艺术和传统的一种新的诠释,提出了旗袍服饰的新建议,结合了旗袍的传统设计理念及现代的运动风格。

The designer made by Xiong Youwen, the first Asian teacher in ESMOD, worked on a radical transposition, a new interpretation of art and tradition for a new proposal of the Qipao dress. The approach is to combine the tradition and the singularity of the Qipao dress, and all its codes, with a modern look that is both sporty and urban. Gabardine wool or wool blend. Touched dry, matte appearance. Transparency of silk organza or cotton organdy or high performance technical fabric "windbreaker”.

台湾设计师潘怡良以针织作为旗袍的创新面料,结合曳地圆摆及鱼尾设计,增强了垂坠感与贴身性,更添女性风采。静如夜色的深紫,屹立舞台中央,却有着让人无法抗拒的魅力。

Gioia Pan, a designer from Taiwan, graduated from the Bunka Fashion College, and received a master's degree from the institute of textiles at Fu Jen Catholic University in Taiwan. Currently, she is the design director of GIOIAPAN and a member of China Fashion Association fashion art committee. She is named "the Queen of Knitwear" in Taiwan.

The design uses knitting as the innovative fabric of the qipao, combined with the circular pendulum and fish tail design, which enhances curve of women body, and adds feminine elegance. Purple as the dark night, the dress standing in the middle of the stage and has an irresistible charm.

上海东华大学时尚科创团队的健康旗袍系列作品,通过石墨烯碳纤维发热技术,设计了能够快速稳定地向全身导热的旗袍,弥补旗袍质地薄的缺陷,达到对女性身体理疗保健的功能。蜕变旗袍系列则采用温敏针织纱线为主要材料,实现31℃可逆感温变色,使旗袍既有科技元素,又不失时尚美感,也展现了女性思想不断解放蜕变的过程。

The designer was a team formed by teachers and students of Shanghai International Fashion Innovation Center. SIFIC is a scientific center that studying fashion industry. It focus on branding management, new technology on fabric and also brand cultural transmission. 

Health Qipao

By using graphene carbon fiber heating technology, this qipao is designed to quickly and stably conduct heat to the whole body, so as to remedy the defect of thin quality of qipao and achieve the function of physical therapy and health care for women.

Heat-sensitive Qipao

From being bound by traditional concepts to being independent and confident in modern times, women's thoughts are constantly liberated and transformed. Using heat-sensitive knitting yarn as the main material of this qipao, it has a reversible color changeing function when temperature reaches31 ℃, making the qipao a  high technology product, while keeping vogue.


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