风宪衣冠：桐乡濮院杨家桥明代墓葬出土纺织品修复成果展-中国丝绸博物馆

风宪衣冠：桐乡濮院杨家桥明代墓葬出土纺织品修复成果展

展览地点：Textile Conservation Gallery

展览时间：2024年3月26日 - 2024年5月30日

主办：浙江省文化广电和旅游厅、浙江省文物局

承办：中国丝绸博物馆

协办：桐乡市博物馆

Organizer: Zhejiang Provincial Department of Culture Radio Television and Tourism，Zhejiang Provincial Cultural Heritage Bureau

Host:China National Silk Museum

Co-organizer: Tongxiang Museum

Location: Textile Conservation Gallery, China National Silk Museum

桐乡濮院镇旧称“幽湖”“梅泾”，是明清时期江南五大名镇之一，以生产精美绝伦的“濮丝”名扬天下，明万历年间就以“日出万匹绸”成为“嘉禾巨镇”。有着悠久历史的美丽幽湖，900多年来文化兴盛，人才辈出。

2002年11月25日下午，桐乡市博物馆接到濮院镇文化站报告，称在杨家桥香海寺基建工地发现一座墓葬。桐乡市博物馆立即派员前往，根据墓葬的形制确定是一座明墓，遂于当日展开抢救性发掘清理。经清理，棺内陪葬的器物有蓝釉碗两只，筷一副，木匣子一只，以及墓主身着服饰一套。虽尸骨已基本腐烂，但其所穿的服饰及覆盖包裹尸体的被子、棉布等保存尚好。墓主里外共穿了9层衣服，衣服的质地有缎、绢、绮和各种较为复杂的组织品种等，在头上戴着做工精细的网巾和乌纱帽，身着四合如意云纹缎獬豸补圆领袍，圆领、右衽、宽摆、大袖，前后缀有相同的用金线绣成的獬豸补，是明代典型的风宪官员常服款式。迄今为止，衣物能保存如此完好的，这在浙江省所发现的明代墓葬中，并不多见，反映出当时较高的织造工艺水平。墓中伴出的还有镂雕木腰带銙、写有“御史为罪囚事今将天顺五年六月初一日……”字样的文书，这些随葬品也为判定墓主的身份及其所随葬的纺织品的性质提供了依据。据考，该墓墓主为曾任河南按察使佥事的杨青，卒于天顺初年。

2014年1月，纺织品文物保护国家文物局重点科研基地（中国丝绸博物馆）接受委托，前往桐乡市博物馆进行纺织品文物信息提取、编制修复方案，并在方案获批后对12件文物实施了修复。

这12件纺织品文物由中国丝绸博物馆修复完成，此次展览既是修复成果的展示，也是该墓葬纺织品文物的首次亮相。

Tongxiang Puyuan Town, formerly known as "Youhu" and "Meijing", is one of the five famous towns in the southern China during the Ming and Qing dynasties. It is famous for producing the silk which called "Pu silk". With a long history of Youhu, culture has flourished for more than 900 years, and talents have come out in large numbers.

On November 25, 2002, the Tongxiang Museum received a report from the Puyuan Town Culture Station, which said a tomb had been unearthed at the construction site of Xianghai Temple in Yangjiaqiao. Promptly dispatching staff to the location, they identified the find as a Ming Dynasty tomb based on its structural characteristics and immediately initiated a salvage excavation. After clearing the tomb, two blue-glazed bowls, a pair of chopsticks, one wooden box, and a set of clothes worn by the tomb's occupant were found. Despite the skeleton having largely decayed, the burial clothing and textiles such as quilts and cotton blankets that enshrouded the body were impressively preserved.

The tomb occupant was dressed in nine layers of garments made from a variety of fabrics, including satin damask, plain weave silk, damask on tabby, featuring intricate weaves. He wore a finely headband and a black gauze cap on his head, a stain damask robe with clouds and haechi badge, round collar, wide hem, large sleeves, front and back adorned with identical embroidery XieZhi sewed with gold thread, which is a typical style of officials' regular costume in the Ming Dynasty. Such well-preserved apparel is uncommon among Ming Dynasty graves uncovered in Zhejiang Province, reflecting the high standards of textile craftsmanship of the era. Additional finds included a carved wooden belt buckle and official documents saying ‘Imperial censor was prisoned for the crime until June 1st in the fifth year during the reign of Emperor Tianshun of the Ming Dynasty …’, providing further clues to establish the identity of the tomb occupant and the origins of the accompanying textiles. It is believed that the tomb belonged to Yang Qing, who once held the position of Henan's inspector and passed away in the first year in the reign of Emperor Tianshun of the Ming Dynasty.

In January 2014, the Key Scientific Research Base of Textile Conservation (Chinese Silk Museum) took up the task of preserving these discoveries. They visited the Tongxiang Museum to extract data from the textile artifacts, drafted a restoration plan, and carried out the preservation efforts on twelve cultural relics upon approval.

四合如意云纹缎獬豸补圆领

据《明会典》《明史·舆服志》记载,洪武二十四年(1391) 规定,官吏所着常服为盘领大袍,胸前、背后各缀一块补子，一至九品所用禽兽尊卑不一，藉以辨别官品。此袍服补子上的动物怒目圆睁，额头上有明显犄角，称为獬豸（XieZhi），为风宪官之常服。獬豸形象在中国古代服饰中已存续两千余年，从先秦到明清，其形象被当成监察、审计和司法官员廉明正直、执法公正的象征，被当成“法”的化身，在各种场合被经常使用并作为监察御史和司法官员等的身份标志。

《罪惟录》卷四《冠服志》亦云:“圆领前后有补，文武分，文从禽，武从兽，惟风宪官用豸补。”

《五杂组》卷十二《物部四》也说:“国朝服色以补为别，皆用鸟兽，盖取古人以鸟纪官之意。文官惟法官服豸，其余皆鸟，武官皆兽。”